Cape Cod - Truro and Provincetown

 I adore Truro and Provincetown, MA!!!

The photo below is of the Old Colony Trail. I tried to hike, but it's hot as hell and the bugs were eating me alive. I made it two miles before I practically ran back to my car. 

The day after I arrived, I walked to Provincetown in the morning, and perhaps I was tired, or just not feeling it - but I didn't love it. It felt kind of empty to me. I'm so glad I went back the night before I left, able to see it with new eyes. So much amazing art, and having spent time in Truro and the glorious beaches of Provincetown, I understand why. The entire time I was in Cape Cod, I saw a painting in everything. So many paintable landscapes, people - I can see why so many artists paint there.

 I went to Herring Cove to see the sunset on a recommendation from Donna, the caretaker of the cottage I was renting. I jumped in my car at 7pm and got there in time to watch a glorious sunset on a beautiful little beach. Race Point was amazing - I spent few hours there one morning. Bought a beach umbrella - best purchase so far - and watched seals and people for a few hours. As I was leaving the Shark Flag went up and the lifeguard called everyone out of the water. I heard a woman say as she was headed down to the beach "Oh great just in time for the Shack Flag to go up". I love the accents in MA but can't understand that much of what they say. The beaches on the Cape are known for Great White sharks, apparently. Jaws.

More than anything else, I enjoyed my beach days on the little private beach owner by the rental's property. I spent a lot of time there, under my beach umbrella, watching seals and the tides. I loved walking into the water during low tides, far out on the sand bars,  and watching the sunsets every night. I was more relaxed than I've been in a really long time. 

Everyone at the cottages were so friendly but never invaded my privacy. Donna was so kind to me, as were the other renters - just nice, real, salt-of-the-earth people. I would love to come back here, stay for a few months.

I am really itching to paint. Not with the watercolor and gouache I have with me, I want to dig into oils with big canvases. I hope that one day I will have a space of my own to do this. Until then, at some point, I will pull out the paints and paper I brought with me. 

Detour to Milwaukee - Franconia Notch New Hampshire - Boston

Franconia, NH photo, Echo Lake

Bridal Veil Falls, Franconia Notch
Ok, so it's been a minute and I've driven a LOT of miles. I'm playing a bit of catch-up here, and all of these places were remarkable in their own way.

The view from the top of Artists Bluff in Franconia Notch.

Seeing friends in Chicago and Milwaukee really helped so much with isolation. I felt very loved, and was so happy to see them. Made a huge difference. After, I was able to completely enjoy the solitude of Franconia, New Hampshire. This is a photo of my friend Richard and me in Milwaukee. I hadn't originally planned to drive there, but seeing him was so worth the hours it added on to my pit stop in Buffalo, NY. 

Franconia Notch was one of the most beautiful places I've ever seen. I did some incredible hikes - Bridal Veil Falls, Artist's Bluff, Kinman's Pond. It was by far one of my favorite hiking towns, even hikes in the rain were pretty incredible. The smell of the forests, the feeling of the soft, packed trail under my feet - I didn't care that I was drenched most of the time. To have lush forests like that, you can imagine there's going to be a lot of rain. I almost cancelled my trip to this area, thinking it was too far. I'm so glad I didn't. My friend Rob recommended it to me, saying he spent many happy summers of his childhood up there. I understand why. I would definitely go back.

Flume Gorge deserves its own paragraph. I don't have the words to describe it - I can say "spectacular, gorgeous, stunning" but they don't seem to do justice to what I saw. I went on a whim, having gotten back to my little home base cottage in Sugar Hill, NH. I was restless (surprise) and picked up the guest information booklet, saw Flume Gorge on the list of recommended places. I'm so glad I went - truly it was one of the most incredible places I've ever been to. The rain was a bonus because it was completely uncrowded, at points I had the entire Gorge to myself. If you're ever lucky enough to be in this area, go. You won't regret it. I didn't take photos because of the rain, but believe me, the way it looked, smelled, and sounded is permanently imprinted on my brain. You will have to go see for yourself. The glacial boulders, the basalt, the Conway granite - all ancient. It's mind-blowing. I truly don't have enough words. 

The view from Artists Bluff.

By the time I left New Hampshire, I was ready for a city. I very much enjoyed Boston. I went to the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum, The Museum of Fine Arts - so many beautiful works of art to see. I walked Boston Commons and Public Gardens. Went down to Hanover Street and wandered around, had a cannoli at Mike's Pastry. Wish I'd had some of the great Italian food I smelled along Hanover but it was way too crowded for me. I did have Regina's Pizza, which was excellent.

Photo of Public Gardens, downtown Boston

I got very restless the last two days in Boston, maybe it was the storm. I didn't like the hotel, it didn't feel right to me, and smelled of old down pillows. I know, I'm nuts, but I'm sensitive to my surroundings. I'm really working on being present in the moment, hoping it will alleviate some of the anxiety in situations like this. I forced myself to stick it out, I took a walk in the storm - crazy winds. Had a martini. Afterwards, everything was better. Below is a photo from Boston Commons.

                                               

Rural Kentucky to Chicago

 It was really interesting to go from a farm to downtown Chicago. Driving into a big city vs driving the rolling country backroads was pretty crazy. 

The above photo is my view from the Hotel Monaco in Chicago. Pretty amazing to just sit in the window and enjoy it. Sunsets are lovely and I can see a bit of the river. The Marina towers are my favorite, they're the cylinder-shaped buildings towards the left of the photo.

This is the view from my Kentucky farm Airbnb, the sunsets were pretty spectacular. After three days of farm life and isolation,  I was ready to get to the city and see friends. Seeing Chicago with my friend Mary has been so wonderful. I met Mary in Los Angeles, we both lived in Echo Park. 

I love Chicago. I've been here before and am glad I booked five days here. I really like getting up in the morning and running along the riverfront and the lake. The way the light hits the water reminds me a little of Northern CA. It's a special city, vibrant and alive.

She took me to the cultural center to check out the gorgeous architecture. We also took a architectural tour of the city on a boat, such a great experience.

Yesterday we went to Indiana Dunes State Park. She took this photo of Lake Michigan. I love the way it captures the colors of the water, sand, and sky. It's an interesting place - we drove the lakeshore for a while. Kind of like the Hamptons for the people of Chicago - lots of gorgeous houses overlooking the water.

 

Today is my last day here, a little sad to leave. 

Knoxville to Kentucky.

From Townsend, I went to Knoxville via the Foothills Parkway (as much as possible). What sucks about relying on Apple Maps is when you lose service, you can't ask it for new directions. I made it to Knoxville by just making a lucky guess. I'm terrible with geography but have a decent sense of direction. 

After "glamping" for a few days at Little Arrow, I was ready for my own bathroom and a refrigerator. I stayed at the Graduate Hotel, which I've stayed in before in Providence, RI. This one was good, not as nice, but I gleefully peed (yes TMI, I know), showered, and put a few things in the refrigerator whenever I wanted. Simple things can bring so much happiness. 

Had great food at Sunspot and KoPita. KoPita had a vegan Shwarma sandwich that made me want to cry, it was so good. 

Went to the Knoxville Museum of Art. Pretty great collection for a small museum. I love museums, always have. These days I love them more than ever because they are mask mandatory. Except in Florida. This painting by Romanian painter Zsolt Bodoni is called "Replaced". I was really drawn to his two paintings at the museum. Amazing stuff. 

Drove to Kentucky to stay at a cheese farm - nice Airbnb. As I write this I'm sitting on the deck enjoying an amazing sunset. There's calves and kittens, pretty great combo. Tomorrow I take a tour of a cave. Unfortunately not Mammoth Caves because I didn't book the ticket months in advance. I won't give up on it, but this cave will be a cool experience. It's in Bowling Green so there's another place I've never been before. 

The calves are really friendly. The kittens are so adorable and lovable too. You can tell the animals are well taken care of here. It's a good idea to know where your food comes from, how it's made. Do I think this is the most amazing life a cow could have? Not really, but they are treated well, this place is super clean, and they get lots of pasture time. The cheese is spectacular - Kenny's Farmhouse Cheese. 

If I never see Gatlinburg or Pigeon Forge Again, I won't be sad

 8/3/21

Since I had a lot of time to kill, I went back to Hot Springs Resort and Spa in Hot Springs, NC. Had a glorious soak in the tub with the rain pouring down. I don't think I would ever get sick of that place. People complained on Yelp that water wasn't hot enough, but I found it to be perfect. The sound of the rain on the tin roof and in the trees was incredibly soothing. I feel so fortunate to have these experiences. 

Afterwards, I drove through the most beautiful back roads in Tennessee to get to my destination, Little Arrow RV Resort in Townsend, Tennessee. Absolutely stunning landscapes - rolling hills, idyllic scenes of farmhouses and creeks. I don't think I care that much for Tennessee, though it's beautiful, especially up here in the Smoky Mountains. I can't describe why I don't like it. I guess the bears don't help, though there were bears in North Carolina - I loved it there. Driving through Pigeon Forge and Gatlinburg - my worst nightmare - too crowded, horrible traffic, chain restaurants everywhere. Not a mask in sight, absolutely no social distancing. It gave me an empty feeling much like Vegas always has. 

I almost left Little Arrow the moment I arrived, but I talked myself out of it. It was noisy and crowded, a Sunday. Walking into my "primitive tent" site, the heat was stifling. But, after airing it out, turning on fans and swamp cooler, I relaxed a little. I think I'm the only person here alone. It's definitely a family place, nothing wrong with that, it's just a bit strange to be solo here. Camping like this is more fun with friends. Facebook so kindly reminded me that I was here with friends exactly two years ago. 

Drove the loop around Cades Cove. Beautiful country. Saw a million tourists staring at a bear mostly concealed by tall grass.

What kind of bummed me out a little when walking through these old houses was the graffiti carved into them. They were still really interesting to see.

This is the hike I started until a group of hikers came down, ashen-faced, telling me there was a 700 lb bear up ahead. Hiking in a group seeing bears is one thing, but I'd had more than enough of seeing bears on my own in North Carolina. I turned around. Sucks, but I have too vivid an imagination of being mauled by a bear, no one finding my body for weeks. Though I love hiking and nature, I guess I have my limits. Tomorrow the loop road for Cades Cove is closed to cars, which is my cue to hike it. Until I see a bear, of course.

I'm sitting on my little front porch, enjoying the sounds of cicadas. Pretty soon I will be out of the south, I have mixed feelings about it. 

Walhalla - Boone - Roan Mountain

 7/30/21 (last location wouldn't upload photos)

I had to double check that date I just typed. I can't believe it's almost August. In the past two days I've been in three states - South Carolina, North Carolina, Tennessee. They're pretty close together so it's not a big deal, but I think it might be a good indication of my restless state of mind.  I've found that sometimes I crave the sterility of hotels. Airbnbs can be very hotel-like, which I prefer, or they can have too many of the owner's/last tenants personal things in it, which I don't like at all. I've been mixing it up between hotels and vacation rentals so far, which is ideal. 

Took a great hike in Walhalla. Beautiful waterfalls. Went to Stumphouse Tunnel.

 I got really restless in South Carolina. I prefer to spend most of my time outside, and it was just too damned hot. I've never been to Boone, NC, so I headed up there. Stayed at The Horton Hotel in town - super comfy bed, which I welcomed after not sleeping well for three nights. Boone is cool - a college town, very beautiful. Can't say too much about it as I was there for less than 24 hours. Definitely an area I'd like to explore more.

Roan Mountain, Tennessee is gorgeous. Rolling hills, mountains, rivers. Staying in a cabin in a peaceful area - it has an excellent front porch. I spend most of my time out there. Loved watching the groundhogs, rabbits,

deer, and birds. The fireflies at night were incredible, so many of them.

Took an incredible hike up to Jane Bald via Carvers Gap. It's right on the North Carolina/Tennessee border. The photos don't do it justice. It's incredible. It's about 8 miles away from the cabin in Roan Mountain but almost 20 degrees cooler. I had to put on a sweatshirt - so nice to be cold for a change. Hiking pulls me out of my head, life is so much nicer when I'm not in there.  

I realize I'm living the dream. I thank the universe every day. It doesn't mean it's always easy. I never want to sound like I'm bitching about this incredible opportunity to travel, see places I've never seen. There are things I miss about having my own place, my own stuff all around me, and I'm super picky about where I sleep. Not to mention traveling during a pandemic - which is tricky. I've noticed a lot of places in the south pretend like it isn't happening. A little disconcerting. 

There's also the issue of killing time between check outs/ins. Sunday I have to kill SIX hours. It's not that I can't find many things to do in those hours. Everything I need on this journey is in my car. Leaving it parked, unattended, while I take a three hour hike isn't the best thing. And no, it doesn't all fit in my trunk. It probably could've, but when I packed for this, I had no idea of where I'd be staying, what I'd be needing. It's a great lesson of less IS more - I don't need some of the stuff I have with me. Options are good though - I have a tent if I want to camp, some camping supplies, sheets, a blanket that compresses down. I don't regret bringing those things. It's the clothes - I don't need so many clothes. When I go to Greece in September, I'm really going to pare it down.